Travel review: A perfect stay at The Devonshire Arms in Beeley

Location

Owned by the Duke of Devonshire’s Chatsworth Estate, this quaint and cosy stone-walled 18th century coaching inn is at the heart of quintessential village life in picturesque and serene Beeley (recently named as one of Britain’s poshest villages and only an hour from Birmingham), known for its gently cascading stream and period drama timelessness.

Surrounded by rolling green hills and serene valleys in the Peak District, the inn is strategically located just a mile from Chatsworth House - one of Britain’s most magnificent stately homes - making

it the perfect base to explore the historic house and its expansive, manicured parklands.

Ideal for walkers and cyclists with numerous trails that meander directly from The Devonshire Arm’s doorstep, hike up to Hob Hurst’s House, a Bronze Age burial mound on Beeley Moor, or wander through the historic halls of nearby Haddon Hall, Hardwick Hall and Kedleston. Other nearby attractions include the charming market town of Bakewell (famous for its iconic pudding) and Castleton which is renowned for its caverns.

Arriving by train? Chesterfield station is just a 20-minute taxi ride away.

First impressions

The journey’s a treat through winding country lanes flanked by ancient stone walls and lush hedgerows and gets you fully geared up for a weekend of R&R.

Beeley itself is an absolute gem. The tiny village - first mentioned in the Domesday Book of 1086 - carries oodles of history with the Devonshire Arms first converted into an inn in 1747 from three separate cottages and notable guests include Charles Dickens who was a frequent visitor and King Edward VII, who is rumored to have

met his mistress, Alice Keppel here. Now catering to out-of-towners visiting Chatsworth and some locals from the surrounding farming community, it’s a traditional and inviting venue with an aristocratic touch; low ceilings with dark oak wood beams, a swoonworthy open-fireplace, exposed stone walls and flagstone floors, antique wood furniture loaned directly from the Duke and Duchess’s own collection at Chatsworth and vibrant pops of colour on fabrics. The carpet even bears the Devonshire’s own family motif.

The bar serves pints of local ale from nearby breweries and 20 varieties of gin and has cosy banquette seating and striped upholstered bucket chairs around wooden farmhouse style tables from which you can also mull over a superb classic pub menu after a full day

trudging through the Peak District. In contrast, the brasserie offers a bright, modern dining experience with floor-to-ceiling windows, colourful glass light fittings and graphic prints adding decorative touches. Walls are also adorned with paintings by local artist David Naylor who donates all the proceeds to cancer charity.

Having achieved a five-star rating, a spot in the Michelin Guide and an AA Rosette,

manager Jon and his team of staff are truly wonderful; you’re always met with warm smiles, attentiveness and an eagerness to help with menu recommendations and helpful tips about the local area. Check-in is fast and seamless.

Suite dreams

We check into Devonshire Square - a traditional old stone farmer’s cottage converted into four luxury deluxe bedrooms and suites. Situated opposite the main restaurant building, it makes for a handy, drive-free post dinner tootle straight into extremely comfortable king beds you’ll want to take back home with you.

Our room, Kinder, is vast and airy and provides peaceful refuge from the Derbyshire elements in both the winter and summer. Offering views of the main house and village in front and lush sheep-filled fields at the back (where you’ll also find a private sun-trap terrace complete with garden tables and chairs), the suite’s tasteful aesthetics have been hand picked by Lady Burlington (the Duke and Duchess’ daughter in law) and ticks every luxury box for discerning guests. Flatscreen TVs, modern and antique oil paintings from Chatsworth’s extensive art archives, plush rugs, high-speed WiFi, bedside USB sockets, Nespresso machines, DAB radios with Bluetooth and a minibar fridge you can have prestocked to your choosing and which comes with complimentary fresh milk & bottled waters.

Understated wallpapers complement rich wooden furniture and ornate mirrors and handmade, sheep wool duvets on beds are from award-winning Devon Duvets.

With heated floors in a decadent spa-like walk-in shower room that feels like your own private hammam, thanks to tiled seating, and stylish separate bathrooms with deep tubs, every bathroom comes stocked with large refillable and recyclable bottles of Chatsworth's own brand pampering goodies (the Sweet Basil and Citrus body wash is lush) which can be purchased from reception should you fall in love with them as much as we did.

The inn’s other 14 rooms are spread out between the main house (where suites are chock full of historical quirkiness - think wonky floors, squishy window seats and low ceilings) and in characterful buildings including the 17th century Dove cottage which used to house estate workers and was designed by Paxton, one of the original gardeners at Chatsworth. It features six deluxe double bedrooms with lattice windows. Recently refurbished with a new colour scheme, Brookside has four bedrooms and overlooks the pretty brook that flows outside the brasserie and has countrified decor in soothing palettes of clays and greys and more paintings brought over from The Devonshire’s stately pile.

Eat

Head Chef Alan Hill’s tantalising modern British menu - which changes seasonally and features many ingredients grown on the Chatsworth estate - pulls out all the stops in culinary class. Having previously worked at several Michelin-starred restaurants, he brings a wealth of experience and creativity to the kitchen. Start by sipping on a bottle of wine from an excellent local and international list and served by friendly and super polite staff.

Crowd pleasing starters of ham hock terrine and makeral pate are offset by more adventurous a la carte options of slow braised pork cheek and an innovative and delicious deconstructed ‘cheese and onion’ starter featuring Yorkshire blue cheese, pickled onions and brick pastry which just melts in the mouth.

A comforting leek and courgette soup entree is silky and packed with flavour. The beef and ale pie is a marvel; tender, slow-cooked Derbyshire beef with carrots and onions served with a rich gravy that’s been reduced to perfection. The red mullet fish of the day - served with crushed new potatoes, seasonal veg, samphire, and a roast fish sauce which is flavourful without overpowering the delicate mullet - is amother standout dish. There’s also a delicious hommity pie - a local dish made of diced potato, onion and spinach in a cheddar cheese sauce and topped with crispy pasty.

Try the sticky toffee pudding served warm with butterscotch sauce and vanilla ice cream for a lovely finish.

Breakfast lovers are well-served with yummy French toast and egg’s Benedict made using eggs laid by Chatsworth’s own hens and there are considerable continental options of cured meats and freshly baked pastries and a superb cooked full English. Afterwards enjoy morning coffees on the terrace next to the babbling brook or head into the tranquil garden for vistas of the green landscape and vibrant flowers.

What you will love

· A spacious car park is equipped with charging points for electric vehicles

· The hotel provides free walking route maps from Beeley to Chatsworth when you’re ready to go visit the palatial manor.

· The ecological-friendliness and the emphasis on sustainability and ethical practices here make a stay even more alluring for responsible travellers. Fifty

percent of suppliers are from within 30 a mile radius, fruit and vegetable produce comes from the inn’s own garden and kitchen waste such as waste fats are sent for recycling.

· Picnic hampers in Chatsworth branded wicker baskets can be organised ahead of your stay

How to book

Visit Devonshire Arms at Beeley, Devonshire Square, Beeley, Chatsworth Estate, Derbyshire DE4 2NR, England. To book visit http://devonshirebeeley.co.uk or email [email protected] or call 01629 733259. For more information visit www.visitpeakdistrict.com